Morgon 2008 Marcel Lapierre

Low sulphur and sans sulphur wines have been a mixed bag for me. Fourrier is the only domaine I've tried that seems to consistently triumph with his techniques. Others have been re-fermenting, off-putting messes. I'm curious about some of the wines that Jamie Goode has tried, as he's all over the natural wine thing.

The colour on this is fantastic. It shimmers with bright rubies and violets, depending on how the light hits it.

I get something different with each sniff. At once it will be earthy with coffee grounds and then on the next whiff bright cherries and cranberries with notes of violets.

The palate is light and rustic, flower-laced red fruits, a bit of wet stone and a good, earthy mouth feel. The fruits are bright, and while there's not an enormous amount of power, there's a tremendous sense of energy and lift. Nebulous, eh? It's difficult to explain, but there you go. Perhaps the best example is that the finish is more an echo of the mid-palate than any sort of end palate. What lingers longest is the humming brightness of the fruit and the grip that's wrapped around it. Impressive, and probably the finest Morgon I've ever tasted.


Tasted 4 Feb 2011 at Luvians Bottleshop